🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.